Surfing Places, Surfboard Makers: Craft, Creativity, and Cultural Heritage in Hawai'i, California, and Australia

Abstract

This is a book about surfboards. Surfing is an ancient interaction between humans and the environment, a fluid and exciting pastime where breaking waves, the body, and a surfboard interact. As the only essential instrument for surfing, the surfboard is a point of physical connection between the body and the surface of the wave. Surfers use their board to paddle with enough momentum to connect with a wave's shifting energy before maneuvering to their feet and riding its breaking crest toward shore. To surfers, their board is more than a piece of expensive equipment; it is symbolic, even talismanic. Surfboards are emblems of cultural, social, and emotional meanings. Contained in a surfer's favorite board are physical reminders marks, scratches, and imperfections - along with memories and stories that embody a surfing life. Etched into surfboards are experiences of joy and elation from skillful rides, embarrassment and disappointment from wipeouts witnessed by others. Surfboards are also products infused with centuries of cultural practice, artisanal skill, and design precedents. This book examines surfboards as artifacts rich in history and cultural meaning.